I was invited by Sarah to go ice climbing for the weekend on the Matanuska Glacier. Her friend Dean, was taking a number of first time people and teaching a few future guides the basics of ice climbing. I was super excited about this opportunity. I had only ice climbed twice before and in both cases it was brief and only introductory, I wanted the chance to learn a few new things and work on my skills. We drove up North of Anchorage for a couple hours and met with everyone there. Once geared up we headed out to the glacier. I helped Dean setup a couple of the ropes, we used ice screws to create 2-3 V thread holes then threaded a single 6mm coord through each hole. We then tied them together using a double fisherman’s knot, then equalized the whole thing and tied an overhand knot in it. Next we hooked two locking carabiners, in opposite directions through the system, and then clipped the climbing rope through that.
I learned a couple different ice climbing techniques from Dean, release techniques with the ice axe, and proceeded to climb steeper and steeper walls. I had a great day out with a bunch of awesome people that were more than happy to help with knot tying, rappelling and ice climbing. In total there were about 20 people out. That night, we all camped near the glacier and everyone had a good time.
The next day, as expected we arose a bit late and some people packed up and headed out and a few of us stayed behind for another day of ice climbing. Dean, Salina, Sarah and I headed back out to the glacier. Dean and Salina selected a face that they thought would make a challenging but good climb. The sun was shining and the temperatures were warm. Dean setup the belay from the top of the crevasse, I was the first one to get lowered in. Initially I was lowered down a nice gradual slope that was very climbable, then I went over a bulge and the wall cut back and was severely overhung, way outside my capabilities. I should have had Dean stop lowering me sooner, but thought I could find an easier route out. Once I started to try and climb, I kept getting up a few feet and then falling off the wall swinging way out into the crevass. I made several attempts before I decide to find an easier route. I had Dean lower me to a shelf in the crevasse where I could sit while he reset the rope. I was then lined up to climb an 85 deg slop that had a few small overhangs, doable, but in my tired condition it would be difficult. I slowly crawled up the slope, falling off several times due severely weakened arms, and legs lack of really good technique. I eventually made my way all the way to the top and out, totally exhausted. I had been down in the crevasse close to 1 hour. Everyone else took their turn at the same slope I just climbed out, and everyone agreed that it was challenging and not something they would want to do when there were tired.
I had a great weekend, learned a ton about climbing, and setting up the ropes with V-thread anchors. I also met a great group of people, who have definitely left a good impression of Alaska on me.
No comments:
Post a Comment